Bicycle touring in South Korea
General Information, by Jan Boonstra
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Incheon International Airport
If you travel by air with your bicycle to Seoul, at Incheon International Airport there is a special luggage belt for oversized luggage. The airport employees are very helpful; don't hesitate to ask about your bike. Do not leave the arrival hall before picking up a free copy of the tourist map of Korea at the Tourist Information Desk of the KNTC. This is one of the few places in the whole country where you can find a map in romanized script, i.e. readable for non-Koreans. Here is more info about Incheon International Airport. To get away from the airport, the easiest way is to use a shuttle bus with various destinations in and around Seoul and major cities, even as far as Busan. No problem to bring your bike, see point 2 below. There is a way to start your cycle trip right away from the airport. You can't use the main road over the Yeongjongdo Bridge but take the ferry to Incheon City instead. Follow the signs for "Wolmido" after starting from the arrival hall.To Transport your Bike in the Country
On domestic flights the bike can be taken for free, if the total weight of your luggage is not too far in excess of your allowance. But you might get troubles if your bike is not packed and/or taken apart a bit (pedals and wheels taken off).
Trains have poor facilities for bicycle transport. There are four types of trains. I had a bad experience once to take a bike on the second fastest train, the 'Saemaul'. After negociating I was allowed to take the bike, but there was no place on the train to store it. It was a nuissance.
A very good way to transport your bike in the country, is by taking a bus. I mean the long-distance buses ("gosok bus") and the regional buses ("siwe bus"). There is an extensive busline network of and they travel very frequently. The storage capacity for luggage is big on those buses (under the compartment) and in general there will be place for your bike(s). There is no extra charge. All cities and towns have a bus terminal. Just pronounce slowly 'bus terminal' when you ask your way; this is understood by Koreans. In the busterminals, travel information is not always available in English. Rely on the helpfulness of other travellers and the ticket selling employees.About Korean Road Maps
Koreans do not use maps very often, so don’t ask somebody to point something out on a map. Most Koreans will only be confused, as yourself. Since they don’t use them, few road maps are good, and few are updated. The best road maps are in the road atlases, which also have town plans. These are not so convenient for the bicycle tourist because they weigh a lot. What I prefer to do myself is cutting out the pages you will need from a 1: 100,000 atlas and dispose of the rest. You will need also a smaller scale map for the general overview and for planning.
Provincial maps are relatively good. They have scales, varying between 1: 150,000 to 1: 250,000. These maps are cheap (a few US$) and are sold in a carton folder. When you want to buy such a map in a Korean bookstore, ask the sales clerk for "Jee-Doh" (= map). Be aware that almost all maps and atlases are in Korean script (Hangeul). The Korea National Tourist Corporation supplies a map of the whole country in English, at scale 1: 1,050,000. It is handy for the self-contained foreign traveller in Korea. This map isn’t available in bookstores. Pick it up at an office of the KNTC, such as the one at Seoul's Incheon airport or Busan's Gimhae airport.
On my first visit to Korea I wrote, in English, the names of major places that were on my route onto the Korean provincial maps. That proved useful, because all road signs use both a Romanized script (English) as well as hangeul (Korean).Korean Roads and Their Safety
Traffic flows on the right and roads are wide. There's little reason for cars to push you off the road. Two dangers do exist: taxies and buses. Taxis ignore everything when they spot a customer. In their rush, they pull over to the right without first scanning the road. Buses perform the same careless driving manoeuver, careening toward a bus stop when they see people waiting. Always be extra alert whenever you see a bus in any situation. Bus drivers do not obey any traffic rule. Crossroads, in general, are spacious. Traffic lights are always on the opposite side of the junction, sometimes a few hundred meters beyond the white stop lines where you must stop. Whenever a green traffic light turns yellow, stop immediately! Cross traffic gets the green light a very few seconds later. Given the huge dimensions of junctions, the poor cyclist has no time to escape.I have listed some survival tips for cyclists in Korea.
A national road (a 'gukdo') is recognized by it's number, a 1- or 2-digit number on a blue, oval shaped background. These roads often used to be busy with motorized traffic, and thus less attractive for cyclists. But in the last few years things have changed for the good, because of the many new roads that have opened or are still under construction. Many of these roads relieve the old national roads from the big traffic. It is important for the bicycle traveller to spot the old national roads and not just follow the roadsigns. The newly built roads, mostly 4- or 6-lane highways, are to be avoided by the cyclist. A secundairy road (a 'jibangdo') is recognized by it's number, written on a green background. These roads are in most cases (especially outside the urban areas) good roads for bicycle touring, but can still be quite busy if there is no larger highway nearby for the through motorized traffic. Less important roads have numbers on a yellow background or have no number. These roads may be excellent for cyclists, but they require good and detailed maps for planning your route. Also, these roads may be in a bad condition or unpaved and often lack signposts.
Bicycles in Traffic
Motorized traffic has grown explosively in South Korea in the last
decades. The number of registered cars was 14 million in 2005. This is about 4 times the number in 1992, and a hundred and fifty times the number of cars (100,000) in 1969. Now, some roads in urban areas are congested throughout the day. Even in some rural areas, cars constantly cram the roads. Rapid construction of new roads cannot cope with the demand. The big economic recession of '97 / '98 would have given some relieve in this sufficating development, but the quick recovery of economy in 2000 worsened the situation.
Korea’s car-dominated society offers little room for bicyclists and their bicycles. Cyclists are supposed to share the sidewalk with pedestrians, an inheritance of Japanese rule. While in Japan the people are used to cyclists among pedestrians, the Koreans are not. The few bicycle lanes that exist are often snatched by drivers for parking lanes or used as sneak-through alleys to avoid traffic jams. Despite all these obstacles, cycling is not bad in a Korean traffic jam. The wide roads allow cyclists to pass idling cars. Traffic jams also pose less danger: no speeding cars! In most cities, bicycling is the fastest way of travel. Yet, the bicycle is not adopted as a means of transport, but as an instrument for leisure and to stay fit. Hence, most of the bicycle lanes are found in parcs and along rivers, without any integration with the infrastructure for traffic. Most of those lanes are narrow and have to be shared with pedestrians, or are not well separated from footpaths. Most bike lanes suddenly end and there are no signposts. It has all nothing to do with the promotion of the bicycle as a means of transport and Korea has still a long way to go before commuters leave the car at home and go to work by bicycle. In the meantime, take my advice: Cycle the country lanes in the rural areas, far away from the cities. For more information of bicycle facilities and personal suggestions for improvement, see About the Infrastructure for Bicycle TravelWhat Cycling Tourists Need to Know
Be aware that in Korea the correct size (in inches) of a bicycle wheel is in accordance with American standards, which differ slightly with international standards. A flat tyre repair set is essential, as glass and rubbish litter the roads. Beware of stones and gravel on the road, especially in the mountains.
Have a good, flashing, rear light mounted on your bike. This will protect you in the many unlighted tunnels in mountainous areas. Tunnels are not forbidden for cyclists, but neither do they accommodate cyclists very well. You will feel safer with a reliable warning light.
Places to Stay
Touring cyclists who love camping will be disappointed, at least if you merely want to count on your little tent when touring around. Koreans do go camping, but regard camping as adventurous and campgrounds are only found in national parks. Camping alongside the road for only one night is not done.The type of accommodation that can be compared with the "bed & breakfast" in western countries, is called a "minbak". You are supposed to bring your own linen and towels, but there will be no bed in your room. Most Koreans sleep on a sleeping mat on the hard floor. Staying in a minbak is a way to experience the Korean way of living. In the countryside staying in a traditional style minbak can be a wonderful way to experience Korean hospitality and friendlyness. "Minbak" is written as:
.
The most common kind of accommodations are "yeogwan"s, but more and more the word "motel" is used. They stand for "inn", or simple hotel. You'll find them in cities and in small towns. In the cities, they tend to be concentrated in certain suburbs, the central part of town, or near bus and railway stations. Often you will find public bathhouses (saunas) offer yeogwan facilities. The bathhouses, and thus, in many cases, the yeogwan's can be recognized from a distance by the symbol:
"Yeogwan" is written as: 
. If you still can't find a yeogwan for the night, and must ask people for help, pronounce the word as yo-guan with emphasis on "guan", "uan" sounds like "one". The price for one night varies between 15 to 20 Euro (US$20 to US$30). The yeogwan provides you a small towel, shampoo, toothbrush and -paste as well as drinking water. Some yeogwans do not have rooms with beds.
More upmarket accommodations can be found in "hotels". Hotels advertise themselves often in Romanized script, English, so they're easy to spot, but you will only find them in the larger towns and cities. A hotel room in a big hotel will cost at least US$50, but it guarantees a bed and a restaurant, which is nice if you want to start the day with a breakfast. For those who want to experience a real Asian atmosphere, many Buddhist temples offer simple accommodations. Guest quarters are very simple and the monks will ask you about US$12 for a night. Remember that temples are not made for tourism and only enquire for accommodation after you made acquaintance with resident monks. The monk in charge of domestic matters is called the "wonju seu nim", pronounce "seu" as 'sir' without r.
You can also stay for the night in a "jimjjilbang". This is in the first place a public bathing facility, but they are open for 24 hours and provide a dormitory-style place to sleep. There are no private rooms and staying in a jimjjilbang is in general cheaper than staying in a motel.
Do also check the info about accomodation in Korea, including useful links, on the KNTC's website
Restaurants and Food
Ideal place for a short stop:
grocery shop, coffee vending
machine and a nice place to sitKoreans have dishes and eating habits that differ from western and surrounding countries, such as Japan and China. Rather than discuss them in detail, read Lonely Planet - or other tourist guides of Korea. Be prepared for a few shocking adventures while searching for a good meal, from the viewpoint of a westerner. You might not enjoy live octopus, especially while its suction cups latch onto the insides of your mouth. If you are famished, or you have had enough adventures for that day, go straight to the pizza restaurant or other fast-food establishments. Such places are growing like mushrooms nowadays.
In many small places, however, you won't find anything other than local restaurants. Korean food is very spicy. Start by sampling food from stalls along the road. Otherwise, find a restaurant filled with Koreans. Spy on what they are eating. To order, point to a dish that looks attractive to you. To order from the menu, most often written in hangeul, on banners hanging from the walls, is gonna fail for sure, even if the waiter tries to help. Too many differences in the Hangeul script compared to your guidebook, in explaining how food is cooked and in eating habits accumulate here and form an insurmountable barrier, all the more frustrating when you’re starving.
For a nutritious noodle soup, ask for "Rah-myon" or "Oo-dong" - in both cases with emphasis on the first syllable. Many common restaurants, not the specialized ones, have this. What I call a "common" restaurant, is one that has normal tables and chairs and a list of items to order on the wall.But in the last few years, life has been made a lot easier for tourists who do want to experience Korean food, without being guided by a Korean. A type of restaurant called "gimbap cheon-guk" or "gimbap nara" is very popular among Koreans for a simple and quick meal. In most of those places, there is a picture of the food advertised on the wall, so that choosing because more than an act of Russian roulette. Normally there is a wide range of nutritious meals to choose from and in that respect this kind of restaurant is not to be compared with the western style fast food restaurant.
Coffee vending machines used to be found on every corner in Korea, next to every shop, restaurant or fuel station, but the numbers are dwindling. In a modern-style 24-hours convenience store (belonging to chains like 'Family Mart', 'GS25', '7-Eleven', 'Buy the Way' and others) you can buy powdered coffee in a cup, whereas hot water is available. Many of those convenience stores offer a table and chairs, in- or outside, supplying a most welcome stop for the bicycle tourist. Also snacks like sandwiches and hamburgers are often available and a microwave oven is there to eventially heat it up.
The Mountains
Mountains dominate the Korean peninsula. If you're not in them, they form striking backgrounds. Along the West Coast are many plains. Along the East Coast, however, the highest mountain ridges rise into the sky. The highest passes tower about 3000 feet, most in Gangwon-Do, in the northeast. The mountains roads have seldom very steep slopes, at least the main roads. A lot of earth moving is done in road construction to avoid steep gradients. Personally, I think the Korean landscape is one of the most beautiful in the world. It is particularly fine because of the continuously alternating scenery of forested mountains and rock formations. But I have to warn cyclists that are not well trained, that bicycle touring in moutainous Korea may be an exhausting experience.
For more tourist information about Korea, go to the Lonely Planet site of Korea.
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